Kelia Moniz @ Noosa…

Good morning 6am.

North shore shoulder high from the North.  Laniakea best.

Ala Moana flat to knee high and clean.  South swell coming Saturday.

Diamond Head chest high wind swell.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 on the way to the North Shore, i took Seira-chan to my favorite pastry shop!   she told me that her favorite dessert was the malasada we ate yesterday.  i told her wait till you try this!   and now, her favorite is these snow puffs!   pulled up to Laniakea and seen some solid overhead sets.  i didn’t want to make Seira-chan nervous so i told her it was small.  haha… i’ve been teaching Seira-chan that fear will control your mind and body.  so instead of fear controlling you, you have to control your fear.  and this is what she was trying to do right when we got out.  i could just see it in her face… then when i say “go”  this girl goes!!!  well trained!  haha… this was Seira-chan’s very first wave on the North Shore of Hawaii!!!  i was so happy to capture this precious moment!!!   it took us 3 weeks of training to get to this level, and now we’re here!  congratulations girl!   when you can finally control your fear, your life will never be the same.  in the water, and out of the water.  a very bright future ahead… then we drove around the whole island checking out all the waves.   Ehukai Beach looked fun but Laniakea was way bigger and better.  more photos coming later…last stop was at Waiola Shave Ice.  we were the only ones there eating our shave ice in the rain!  haha..

 welcome Southwest Airlines to Hawaii!   let the price wars begin!  now you can fly to the outer islands for only $29 just like before!  sorry Hawaiian Air, no monopoly anymore.   i just love the color of Kelia’s board.  this will be on my next foil board!   long boarding is super fun when you have the right board for the right day.  and this day, this was the right board!   it’s been 3 weeks since Seira-chan came to Hawaii.  from the first day to now, this girls a totally different surfer.  better wave knowledge, better competitor, better surfing style, and better all around.   one of the most important things we’ve been working on was her popping up to her feet after taking off.  and another one was how to be calm in every situation.  the bigger or scarier, the calmer one must be…if Seira-chan is the Karate Kid, then Asayama-san is Mr. Miyagi.  just a few years ago, Asayama-san was slower on popping up, and also not very confident on bigger waves.  we worked on that over and over and he became to have one of the fastest pop up’s ever.   and as far as confidence, nobody comes close.  it takes both to be able to surf one of the most deadliest spots in the world, Backdoor/Pipeline.  i’ll never forget this day when Mr. Miyagi paddled into the wave of his life!   a fast pop up, and balls of steel.  this brave man is coming tomorrow and i hope to connect the 2 somehow.  Karate Kid Part 3 coming soon…

NOTE:  remember this was a 69 year old man surfing Pipeline!!!