Winter Wonderland…

Good morning 6am.

North shore chest high and cleaning up.

Ala Moana knee high and inconsistent.

Diamond Head chest high trade wind swell.  Bumpy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going North!

Have a wonderful day!

 Seira-chan is a Kelia Moniz big fan so it was her dream to meet her.   that happened 3x already.  so today, i got some Kelia Moniz longboards together and had a dream session.   take your pick!   Seira-chan totally connected on this one.  very confident and surfing so gracefully.   and walking the board is getting very natural for her.  had a long amazing session this morning.

so fun riding the world champions boards!   then some poke for lunch.  Seira-chan’s first time at Ono Seafood…  then her first time eating malasadas…  so sweet!  Leonards was very busy today.  Seira-chan was waiting in the long line and i was guarding the precious cargo.   have you ever seen Leonards like this?  i’ve never!  the line around the corner and the wait for a single malasada was over an hour!   we get back in the car, Seira-chan tells me her dream of riding Kelia’s board came true, her dream of eating Ono Seafood came true, and her dream of eating Leonards came true.  she was so happy that 10 seconds after she said that, she fell asleep.  haha.  she said it was a happy sleep… then round 2 at Bowls.  the waves were super perfect for long boarding.   and when you have perfect waves and a perfect long board, life is perfect.  making other people dreams come true is my dream come true too.  sounds weird, but i’ve always been a big dreamer so i know how it feels to live out something you’ve been dreaming for years.  and it’s a great feeling! just ask this girl!

 i can’t believe it cost $60 to park my truck overnight at the Hilton Hawaiian Village!!!  are you serious???   i still remember when parking was only $5… went to eat at my favorite Thai restaurant the other night.  so spicy!  then Seira-chan and i had our favorite, Panda at Kahala Mall.   we just love this place!  i haven’t been underwater for a very long time.  i’m starting to suffocate.  thank goodness my dive buddy Asayama-san is coming this Thursday so we’ll be spending a lot of time in the underwater world.   can’t wait to get out my foil again and start shooting beautiful photos like this.  Chifumi-san @ DH.   last Christmas Eve, one of the local surfers at Ala Moana had a stroke.  luckily, he survived.  seeing him back in the water the other day catching his first wave since then, it was a very happy moment.  he’s like living a bonus life now…i get my fortune cookie and here’s what it says.  “Life’s greatest joys come from sharing good times with friends and family.”   wow, that was right on the spot!