as much as i love to be in the ocean, i love to be in the ocean taking photos.  i’ve always wanted to share the views we get as surfers to people that don’t surf.  and watching my friends evolve from surfers to foilers is cool.  Lansen and i use to get barreled at Pipeline and Backdoor almost on a daily basis.  now, our excitement is on a higher level.  trading barrels for foiling is becoming the norm…and watching everybody getting better and better is cool.  we can all agree that getting into foiling was a life changer…  Naoka was out taking photos that day so want to thank him for this photo.  i’m trying other boards and foils because now i’m focused on my goal of getting barreled… Rikita-san hasn’t surfed since the last time he was here last October.   but he told me he’s been surfing everyday in his mind.  all that image training must have paid off because he ripped this first wave! and got better each and every wave.  perfect!  now i’m inspired to image foil surfing from now.  if i can improve by thinking and believing, i’ll be one step ahead… good rides and good times.  welcome back to Hawaii Rikita-san!

My best shot of the day:  Bowls@Sunset

Good morning 6am.

North shore small at waist high.  Super clean and beautiful.

Ala Moana knee high and perfect for longboard.

Diamond Head chest high and best spot today.

Light winds so perfect morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

last day of surfing with Mai-chan.  really going to miss this girls energy.  always happy and always excited to do anything and everything…

and her bottom turns are getting super good!

and riding super smooth too.

this is the ultimate dream shot as a photographer.  putting each other at risk, trying something different, and the results are one of a kind…

thank you Mai-chan for the exciting surfing sessions.  keep on your great positive path in life as it will only get better…

good to see Dave out practicing and perfecting one of most hardest things to do.  foiling…

want to thank Leleo Kinimaka for sending me this photo from today.  i had a blast out there with you boys!

Rikita-san landed this afternoon, i picked him up from his hotel, we went to the North Shore for a little while, then came back to Bowls at sunset time for a refreshing surf.   it was a wonderful day!

i learned a lot on how to balance out my life.  i work hard, and i play harder.  and when i play, i don’t care what anybody thinks about me anymore.   i have fun and live in the moment, and that moment was in the front row with friends at Pato Bantan!

then when Pato came over and let me sing in the microphone, i didn’t pass up that chance of a lifetime.  i never ever sing, and i can’t sing at all.  but once again, i’m just living in the moment.  and that moment was great!