Life is so freaking good…

Good morning 6:15am.

North shore 4-6′ and coming up!  Still bumpy conditions.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

East side BIG and good!

Light North winds at 5mph becoming calm.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Seira-chan @ Diamond Head this morning.

Good weather.

Good waves.

Good wind.

Good surfing.

Good girl.

Good vibes…

 check out this house up my street!!!  it looks like a scene from a horror movie!   the whole ground is lifting up and the house is about to get swallowed into the earth!   there goes $1,000,000! Megan is Kelia’s best friend since they were babies.  i love this girl because she is real, and she is family.  if anybody makes trouble to Kelia, this girl will get in their face really fast.  and that’s if Kelia isn’t already in their face.  haha.   as they were waxing Megan’s new board, i could hear the girls arguing with each other on how to wax a board.  haha.   i asked Seira-chan if she wanted to go and paddle out as soon as we got there, or wait for slow pace Kelia to get ready and paddle out together.   what do you think she chose?   yeah, to paddle out together with local surfers, including the 2x World Champion isn’t something you can do often.  so you may as well enjoy the moment!   and Seira-chan is enjoying that moment to the fullest…