February 11, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Fallen tree at Kapiolani Community College.  Be careful!

Good morning 6:15am.

North shore 8-12′ and super stormy.  Cannot surf.

Ala Moana getting clean.  Chest high and getting much better.

Diamond Head head high and cleaning up.  Maybe best spot today.

Cool North winds at 20mph.

Sunny and cool.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

Justice is Important

OMG, what a crazy day today with the wild winds.  big waves, power outages, closed roads, falling trees, accidents, and flying debris.   but first, going back to yesterdays crazy day!

 Niina-chan is only 12 years old.  took her surfing last year and she did good.  this year, much better!   a very shy girl, with a very bright lovely smile!   Shuuto-kun is 17 years old.  plays rugby and is very strong.  after a few waves, his arms got tired.  i asked him “which is harder?  rugby or surfing?”  he said “surfing.”  haha.   but this kid has a strong mind so tired arms didn’t stop him from surfing 3 rounds.   i ask Shuuto-kun “what’s your dream?”  he said “i want to be a police officer.  Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara has crime and i want to catch the bad guys.  my dream is for Kansai to have zero crime.  JUSTICE IS IMPORTANT!”  and this kid is only 17 years old???  very inspiring!  i had chicken skin when he was telling me all this in English… the conditions was so wild!  big waves, strong current, and hurricane winds.  but Niina-chan kept calm and surfed beautifully.   peace girl!  keep on surfing and keep on smiling… 2 cousins from Kyoto.  very smart, very calm, very energetic, and very bright futures ahead.  good job kids!   this is one if my favorite views in the world.  from here, i can see straight out into the beautiful Pacific Ocean!   West swell means perfectly long point right waves.  keep on surfing and keep on smiling!

after surfing 6 rounds yesterday, i had a private meeting with my Go-Naminori crew.  dinner, drinks, laughs, and funny stories all night.  thanks guys and girls for the amazing time…

High Wind PM Surf Check

Diamond Head is:

Overhead

Stormy

West windy

Challenging

Nobody out

Go try it!