Mihoko-san@Ala Moana yesterday morning: No rain, no rainbows.
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 2-4′ and junky. No Pipeline Masters today.
New swell tomorrow.
Ala Moana knee high and strong offshore.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 30mph.
Rainy morning becoming sunny afternoon.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!
last year, i surfed with these 3 girls from Kamogawa. last year it was the day after they all ran the Honolulu marathon. this year the same thing. i seriously don’t know where they get all their energy from…
Yamane-san was up first and rode her wave so smoothly. looking like a pro!!!
yeah, great ride, great smile…
then Mihoko-san got up next. look how stoked she is!!!
yeah, amazing ride, amazing time…
then Eriko-san was up and rode it perfectly too. nice balance!!!
yeah, bright Hawaii, bright time…
today was such a perfect day for us to surf. hardly anybody out so absolutely no stress at all. just the ocean and us…
went for a warm lunch at this very secret spot. i went here 2 days in a row. haha.
then to the bakery for the best bread in Hawaii! thank you girls for the amazing morning. i don’t know how you can run a marathon a day before, then surf the next morning. you girls really inspire me. but there is still no way i’m running a marathon. haha..
then went to foil until the sunset. i’m still learning my new hobby and all i can say is that i feel like i’m finally figuring it out! a perfect way to end a perfect day…
every Honolulu Marathon day, every road is closed so there is absolutely no way of getting to the beach in town. so instead of stressing out, all you have to do is avoid it. remember this island is pretty big and is surrounded by ocean…
got a few morning texts from my foiling buddies and found out the East side was the spot. and they were absolutely correct! one hour later, i was there!
good to see Uncle Brian out there foiling with the youth. the whole island of foilers were there this morning. it was like foilers heaven…
this is the start. at 9 years old, Rage is on the way to becoming a waterman…
i paddled out and caught 3 waves. the waves were so long and so perfect. pretty easy to get satisfied in a really short time. this was my last wave of the day and i couldn’t be a happier man. look how beautiful the backdrop is! it was like foiling in Jurassic Park!
right when i came in, all the boys from all over the island showed up. there had to be at least 20 foilers out! it was awesome to see…
then i headed back to town and was looking for my 2nd round. it was 4pm and there were still marathon runners coming around Diamond Head. that’s 11 hours after the race started???
i foiled empty Diamond Head and had a wonderful time. still trying to get better and trying new things everyday. i just need another $3,000 so i can buy the new foils out there. haha.
then as i was driving home after the sunset, i saw more runners still at Kahala! omg, it’s going to take these guys 14 hours to finish? never give up guys!
windy and wet days ahead. enjoy it because it could be worst…
