i had only 2 hours of sleep, super tired, but Takahashi-san wanted to go to the store to buy drinks. i knew the store was close because i drive there a lot of times. i was thinking 10 minutes…

first time i rode a bike in Molokai. it’s super cool because you see things differently. and of course, breathtaking views. and of course, no traffic.

this was when i was still smiling. but after going, going, and going, i was getting tired. it took us 40 minutes to get to the store and the whole time i was thinking to myself “omg, i’m not going to make it back!”

thank goodness, one of the Molokai boys was at the store. i asked for a ride back so we threw the bikes in the back. Kalen told me “wow Uncle, you guys went ride your bikes to here??? that’s crazy!!!” that ended up being the longest bike ride of my lifetime. never again…

wet roads means splashing off the back tire from my ass to my head. i felt so dirty after. and my legs were so tired. and we still had to cross the channel back to Oahu after that. haha.

HUGE swell here!!!

Good morning 6:15am.
HIGH SURF WARNING FOR NORTH AND WEST SHORES.
North shore 12-18′ and dangerous.
West shore 6-10’and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and windy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going foiling and Seth Moniz party!
Have a wonderful day!

as soon as i thought i reached my limit at foiling, i find out i’m not even close. i saw somebody foil a wave like how i surf a wave. so now, i’m experimenting with my equipment and making all kinds of adjustments. soon i won’t be foiling a wave, i’ll be surfing a wave on my foil. first, i have to play around with this mast.

it’s crazy how every little inch makes a huge difference. i’ve been making adjustments every session and learning so much about the dynamics of this foil. it’s like science! kind of weird because i use to hate my science class in high school.

i just got home from an evening session at Diamond Head. it’s only getting better and better…

usually by December, i plan a surf trip for the next year. this year was Sumatra. and after scoring the amazing waves we got, i want to move forward and go somewhere else. my eyes and ears are wide open…

but in the meantime, i’ll enjoy some nice Hawaiian waves…

and also enjoy some fun in the sun at Waikiki…

last night was amazing. good food, good company, good laughs, good smiles, good family, and good friends. thank you Maki-san for taking this photo! it’s amazing how a trip to Molokai can make everybody’s relationship 10x better…