DH right now!!!

want to thank Takami-san for bringing me the coolest foil covers custom made by Dove Wetuits!

they fit perfectly and will protect my treasure. the quality is one of a kind and i know they will last forever.

thank you always to Dove Wetsuits Japan for keeping me warm and protected for the past 26 years!

and thank you Takami-san and Toda-san for always bringing me gifts of joy! i love it all!

and this especially going really good with my ice cold beer!

i went to my secret local restaurant to eat liver and bacon. it was huge and only cost $7.50. cheap and delicious is what i love most!

a couple vacation days coming up again. might get a small plane, or might get a big plane. either or, i’m flying out of here!

and might try to get to the end of the road i couldn’t get to last time. this time i’ll take a tent with me just in case i get stuck. because i know nobody will find me for a couple days. which i really don’t mind at all. haha…

Girls just want to have fun…

Good morning 5:20am.
North shore 3-5′ and good! Haleiwa Pro ON at 8am!
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
No wind so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going sunrise surfing!
Have a wonderful day!