November 9, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


The Pier: Brand new!

Good morning 6am.
North shore head high and little bumpy.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and super clean. New South swell?
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.
Light North winds at 5mph.
Chilly morning and hot afternoon.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

Keep the Green Green…


i use to be super scared to ride small airplanes like this.

only one pilot so if anything happens, what do i do? i guess that’s why i always request the front seat because i’m ready to take control of the airplane if something happens. i see it in the movies all the time. haha.

i’m so close to the front that i probably can press a couple buttons if i wanted to.

once i arrive, i’m in the most peaceful place on earth. this is where time stands still. this is where i feel like i can be so free. and freedom is a lovely thing for me!

i still can’t believe how green it is!!! thank you to all the rain!

i explored more and more. and now i know more and more that this beautiful island of Molokai should be left just the way it is. the people have been fighting their whole lives to keep it that way and i would do the same.

so leaving is always so hard. new friends, now experiences, and new aloha…

but now it’s back to reality. always a bummer to see what money did to Oahu. and the sad thing is 30 years later, there might be no green left…

i get off the plane and pull up to Diamond Head. see 5 guys out which is way too crowded for me. not today, maybe tomorrow…

Sustainable Living


the more i travel to Molokai, the more i understand about life. i grew up on Oahu so as a hunter, all i wanted was trophy catches and quantity. it was like a contest within my friends so the more we caught, the cooler we were. but that’s all changed now. Molokai changed me. the people live off the land. nobody competes for trophy catches and nobody takes to much. it’s all about sustainable living. the ocean is for seafood, the mountains is for meat. the people take just what they need and no more. and that’s the very reason the resources are plentiful. it’s so amazing to see that with my own eyes.

20 years ago, i’d try to fill up a big bucket of opihi. but now, there is no way i’d do that. i take what i need for dinner, and nothing else.

so yes, the guilt of overfishing on Oahu has finally set in. i’m not proud of the 10 kumu’s i once caught, i’m not proud of the 40 lobsters i once caught, and i’m not proud of posing with a stringer full of fish i speared all by myself. those days are long gone.

my future is this: i’m going to catch only what i need to eat. and more over, i’m going to educate the next generation on how to hunt responsible. that’s what i can do to give back to the ocean that has been so good to me. and hopefully the fish will come back and the next generations can find food. that will make me proud…