so fun watching Nanami-san go! as you can see, she’s getting better and better!

when this girl is calm, she surfs amazing. when this girl is not calm, he can’t surf. haha.

lovely rainbow day!

Gavin feeling more and more comfortable on the light board. i can’t wait till he rides a head high wave with that board. he will freak out!

another morning with Mom and Son. cool!

perfect lefts all morning long.

last wave for the morning.

look how empty the beach is! super lucky day again.

went to check on my baby. she was looking a little dirty.

the dirty water and build up on the bottom. i couldn’t look at this any longer so i took her out into the sea to clean her up.

and while i was cleaning, i seen something very interesting on the bottom of the ocean. i grabbed it and it squirted me with ink!!! omg! free hair dye! haha…

then there was another one, then another one, then more and more. cleaned the bottom of Mayuki, filled up a bucket of tako, and went home very happy!

i got this truck for super cheap! put some money and love into it and now it’s worth 3x the amount. been driving it around to make sure everything works. now it’s perfect!

took it down to the pier for its next journey.

hard to say goodbye. but soon it will be hello again.

please don’t fall off the barge! haha. see you soon!

ok, the barrels and big South swells are finished for this year. yes, we will have waves, but nothing like we’ve been having.

so for now, let’s enjoy what Mother Nature sends us. because in other parts of the world, the ocean is totally flat. and if you don’t believe me, you haven’t traveled enough to appreciate what we have…

this is what my winter session is going to look like. surfing chest high waves that feel like 40′ monsters. hanging on for my life and freaking so excited. i’m going big this winter!

so happy Carter found a store close by that sells Bintang beers!!! omg, can’t wait to pick up a few! Bagus!

thank you Nanami-san for the treats from Colorado! elk jersey for my Bintang, granola for my yogurt bowl, and honey for my health.

and so happy to see Keith and his lovely wife Kiki enjoying a beer in Taiwan. and so happy that Hashimoto-san went there for a surf trip! cheers guys and can’t wait to see you all!

Diamond Head Barry: The happiest local surfer in the world!

Good morning 6am.
North shore waist high.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and huge rainbows.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day.