super energetic, super happy, and super young. welcome to your first surfing session in Hawaii Nao-san!

first light, first wave, and first smile. so happy!

then a huge rainbow to follow!

more smiles, and more long happy rides. this is how you’re supposed to be enjoying surfing. this is what you call “stoke!”

we only surfed for an hour and a half but Nao-san caught 15 waves. all long and all so good!

when i picked up Nao-san from her hotel, i thought she was a teenager. haha. come to find out, she’s a Doctor in Miyako!!! omg! very impressive… thank you Dr. Nao-san for the wonderful morning!

my afternoons usually go like this. my time to play hard. i just want bigger and bigger!

and i just want faster and faster! someday soon, i’ll be foiling on a huge wave and when that day comes, i’ll be fully content…

now that i finally have the tako eye, i found 15 holes yesterday in just a small area. can you see it? probably not huh?

the key is to dive down calmly. the tako isn’t going to run away so there’s no rush.

this is where people make the mistake of trying to spear it in the hole. don’t do that! it won’t come out and will just die in the hole.

just tickle it out like this and it will come out to play.

then when it comes out of the hole, grab it.

get ready for the blackout as the tako will squirt its ink all over you.

and it will keep you blind for a little as it tries to run away. just like how this one did.

then dive down and grab it before it reaches the bottom. hold it again and don’t let go.

then get ready for another blackout. one tako will squirt black ink about 4x. it’s their defense against predators. it will be pitch dark and pretty scary until the water clears.

because i don’t kill them, they crawl all over my body when i’m bringing them up. so sometimes i just have to let go because their grip is way stronger than mine.

but just keep calm and stay focused. if you take your eye off the tako for a second, you won’t find it. so keep your eye on it, grab it again, then put it in the bag, and dream about takoyaki! haha…

Delicious tentacles!

Good morning 6am.
North shore almost flat.
Ala Moana almost flat.
Diamond Head waist high.
Today good for long boarding and foiling!
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going long boarding and foiling!
Have a wonderful day…