so stoked to paddle out this morning with Ken-san. looking way more energetic and way more stoked!

his first wave was amazing! perfectly popped up and turned down the line.

very confident and very cool style.

and even cooler passing me by. thank you for the awesome surfing and laughing Ken-san!

not too many other surfers out this morning. only the lucky few… i ended up surfing for 4 hours this morning. stoked!

check out this resort island in the Maldives.

they actually built a room underwater!

they shouldn’t let me stay there because i might wake up in the middle of the night and spear a fish through the glass. that would be ugly… haha…

after a nice day surfing and diving, it’s cool to meet a friend down my street and have a nice cold beer. island style life…

look at the reef and sand. this is where tako love to build their houses. and you just never know what will swim by. in this case, a pair of eagle rays.

these ones were pretty dam big!

they aren’t scared of humans as they cruise on by. it was an amazing moment.

diving 25′ to the bottom is the easy part to catch these tako. it’s staying down for a long time trying to get them to come out of their house is the hard part. so it’s actually like diving 50′. and once you can do that, you can eat free takoyaki for your lifetime…

so happy to see Toshimi-san and Rikita-san enjoying the surf in Japan. miss you guys!

and always lovely to get a text and photos from Asayama-san. a very calm man that is enjoying life to the fullest.

fishing in the mountains and not seeing a single soul around. that is peace, that is life, and that is happiness. see you soon Asayama-san!

Welcome to small but fun Ala Moana Bowls…

Good morning 6am.
North shore chest high and bumpy.
Ala Moana keee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going long boarding and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!