
i’ve been making some extra dive gear just tailored for traveling. the basic necessities with the lightest weight. so as i got everything out, this little boy sits in front of me and says “Unko Kirby, can I help you?”

so i ended up teaching Mateus how to make customized dive gear. he actually did most of the had work for me.

he was so happy to help me. he said “anytime i can help you Unko Kirby.”

Mateus made me clips for my weight belt. this is where i string up the fish and carry it around my waist. something i highly don’t recommend because of the shark factor.

thank you little boy. i can’t wait until he day i can teach you how to free dive and catch dinner. that’s my dream…

i was walking down the street in Kalihi and saw something familiar. omg, it’s my old Yamaha! so stoked to see the guy actually using it! i kind of wanted to buy it back. haha.

then went to Waikiki and saw the hotel workers strike. right in from of the PK hotel!

they were blocking the driveway and yelling “Don’t check it!!! Check out!!!” to all the tourists. i seen some tourists actually terrified. how would you feel?

left the crazy nightlife at Waikiki and headed to my favorite Thai restaurant. spring rolls for our appetizer.

then yellow curry with sticky rice for our main meal. absolutely delicious!
Waikiki Hotel Strike!
October 13, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report

Can you smell the fresh air? I can!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and clean.
Diamond Head head high and clean.
No wind so perfect morning conditions.
Cloudy becoming sunny.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
Surfing Hawaii: Live or Die
because i spend so much time in the ocean, i see so many things. some so beautiful, and some not so beautiful.

this situation was not so beautiful. i was surfing when i seen this girl walk to the ledge without looking back at the ocean, i already knew she wasn’t ocean minded.

i could see a set coming in from the horizon, she didn’t. all she was doing was looking down finding how to jump in the water.

the set approaches as i try to get out of the way. look at the left side and you will see the girl jumping in. so freaking dangerous!!!

that set was way overhead, and look at the girl in the water. she’s still not looking back to the ocean. she has no idea the wave is coming.

this is when she finally senses that something is wrong. by this time, it’s too late.

luckily the surfer didn’t run over this girls head. she couldn’t even duck dive her board.

that’s tons of water pressure coming down on that girls head.

she disappears. luckily she has another surfer and me watching her. she actually stayed underwater pretty long.

she finally popped up in a panic. she went in shortly after this. i’m sure it was a near death experience for her. hopefully she will learn. hopefully she will learn not to turn her back to the ocean. hopefully she will learn her limits. and hopefully she will learn never to surf there again. this place is for experts only…


