because i spend so much time in the ocean, i see so many things. some so beautiful, and some not so beautiful.

this situation was not so beautiful. i was surfing when i seen this girl walk to the ledge without looking back at the ocean, i already knew she wasn’t ocean minded.

i could see a set coming in from the horizon, she didn’t. all she was doing was looking down finding how to jump in the water.

the set approaches as i try to get out of the way. look at the left side and you will see the girl jumping in. so freaking dangerous!!!

that set was way overhead, and look at the girl in the water. she’s still not looking back to the ocean. she has no idea the wave is coming.

this is when she finally senses that something is wrong. by this time, it’s too late.

luckily the surfer didn’t run over this girls head. she couldn’t even duck dive her board.

that’s tons of water pressure coming down on that girls head.

she disappears. luckily she has another surfer and me watching her. she actually stayed underwater pretty long.

she finally popped up in a panic. she went in shortly after this. i’m sure it was a near death experience for her. hopefully she will learn. hopefully she will learn not to turn her back to the ocean. hopefully she will learn her limits. and hopefully she will learn never to surf there again. this place is for experts only…

Surfer x Nature

Good morning 5:45am.
North shore chest high and perfect.
Ala Moana head high and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and perfect.
No wind so clean morning conditions. Afternoon onshore.
Sun, clouds, rain, and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

to my recollection, this Summer has to have been the best year in waves. a couple hurricane swells and multiple South swells. it’s already October and the action doesn’t stop! way overhead and no winds so i went to check out my secret spot. and omg, nobody out and it was amazing!

passed by Big Rights on the way back and seen huge swells hitting the lineup. there were only 4 surfers out??? i caught 4 waves, 2 were barrels, and 2 were 4 turn waves. 5′ sets and probably the best barrel of the year for me! so stoked! i came back to Mayuki and was so happy! look behind me and you’ll only see 5 guys out at epic Big Rights! so dam lucky…

yes everybody, i’m enjoying my vacation. supposed to be elsewhere but since that didn’t work out, i’m right here and loving every minute of it…

came home and prepared my own dinner. ate alone and now Mateus came to sleep over. better go give the little boy some love and attention… good night.