i always try to explain to people about opening up your leading shoulder. look at this and i’ll explain again. look at my left hand going left and starting the maneuver. in this case, a cutback. after my left hand leads, i keep my left shoulder open as it follows. then my board will follow right after that. notice my hand is up at shoulder height. then look at where my eyes are looking. not up, not down, but only in the direction i want to go. not too much, not too little.

and remember to relax your face and body. that’s why i tell everybody to smile. when you smile, your body softens up. when you’re tense, your body is stiff as a pole. so smile and enjoy the ride. then paddle back out and do it over and over. then simple maneuvers like this will become so natural…

that’s your surfing lesson for today. now go and try it!

Okinawa 9/2000 @ Nuggets.

Good morning 6am.
Waves everywhere!!!
North shore chest high and perfect.
Ala Moana overhead and super good.
Diamond Head 5′ and good.
Light wind so perfect conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and surfing!
Have a wonderful day!!!

OMG! Bowls was like Indonesia this morning! every single wave was lining up perfectly and barreling all the way. 4 feet, no crowd, and just so perfect. amazing…

was cleaning up my desktop and came across this photo. Shun and Seth when they were 2 little kids at Kewalos. now these guys are on the world tour. amazing…

look at these 2 little kids enjoying the ukulele, music, ocean, sunset, and each other. amazing…

the bed of my new truck use to look like this. scratched, dents, and just so ugly.

after i painted it today, it looks like this. amazing…

once it dries, it will be perfect!

Mao-san never ever stopped paddling. yes she put her head sideways to take a break, but her arms kept on paddling. amazing…

and to see the foilers pass on by was yet again, amazing…