only had an hour to surf today so thought i’d maximize my water time by getting out the fastest way possible. this way!

caught 3 sets in 30 minutes and i was done and happy. that one hour surf session was efficient, cheap, and very satisfying.

went back out this afternoon and saw the love seals on the beach.

i still remember the first time i dove 40′ in this menpachi hole. as i had a fish on my spear, i was backing out of the hole and once i turned around, i saw the biggest seal looking at me trying to steal my fish off my spear. i was making my way up slowly to the surface and he was circling me trying to take my fish. i will never forget that first encounter.

so stoked to take Tashiro-san out surfing this afternoon. he’s from Fukuoka so not really accustomed to big waves. well, this evening was huge! the hurricane brought the waves up and some sets were breaking outside by the red buoy. a great big wave experience for this young surfer. i’m sure he will never forget today!

another end to another hot day.

looking to see where i should go on my next vacation. already been to pretty much everywhere in this map including Taiwan, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, and the Philippines. i’m kind of swaying towards the Philippines or Taiwan for now. or maybe Laos or Malaysia? so confusing. haha…

but if i don’t find a ticket or place to go, i’ll just go back to this secluded beach that’s not to far away. the plane or boat is leaving soon…

Toshimi-san caught some amazing waves that were head high. when i said go, she went!

and feeling the wind at your face while speeding down the face is an amazing moment.

then it’s time to straighten out before the barrel lands on your head.

then prepare for the feeling of an olympic size swimming pool being dumped on you. and enjoy every moment. haha.

Rikita-san surfing with so much style.

look at the spray coming off the rail on this backside bottom turn. nice power surfing!

Nori-san surfing Bowls left wave after wave.

cutback after cutback.

and completing each and every ride.

last wave for this wonderful trip. a great way to end it.

Toshimi-san ending it with a smile.

Nori-san straight back to Japan to work after wonderful rides.

countless hours of surfing, and countless long happy rides. thank you guys again for all the joy in these past few days!

good waves, good smiles, and good times!

Positive Vibes Only!

The Endless Summer continues…

Good morning 5:40am.
North shore 3-5′ and perfect.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!