gosh, had another marathon surf session this morning with Rikita-san, Nori-san, and Toshimi-san. waves were so good again! everybody so happy!
went to stop by a few select shops after. HE>i was just one of them. whoever designed this logo is a genius!
then to Liliha Bakery.
another genius for copying Mister Donuts recipe in Japan. just change the name and it’s all good! haha.
seems like our summer is getting longer and hotter. it went up to 37C today!!!
so went to get a ice cold milk tea smoothie with tapioca. been doing this everyday.
then went to the mountains to cool off. 26C and feeling the fresh and most cleanest air on the planet.
i can look at this every single day of the year and never get bored of this amazing view.
it was the perfect day to drive in the mountains. listening to the birds chirping, and smelling the sweet blossoming ginger plants.
then stopped by Punchbowl Cemetery. this is where war heroes lay to rest. every time i come here, i get the chills thinking about all the sacrifices our war veterans did for my country.
here is Nori-san looking at the huge flag waving in the wind. so powerful! thank you guys for the amazing days of surfing and hanging out. so fun!!!
and omg, i can’t believe that another super typhoon is heading to Japan again! when will this all stop???
Respect the Flag
Bye Bye Bike, Hello Dream…
want to thank the Iwata-san family for the amazing presents! omg, this is so cool!!!
next time Mateus comes over, we will have a traditional Japanese tea ceremony. i can’t wait!!!
did you see the seal throw the tako at the kayakers head? that was pretty funny.
i had this Yamaha for 4 years. luckily i didn’t die. i you ever seen a guy flying down side streets like a maniac on this bike, it was probably me. i woke up the other day thinking i was getting too old for that. then i sat down for a minute thinking about how many times i actually crashed on this thing. it was too many…
so i decided to sell it before i kill myself. the guy came to pick it up and he was so happy. i know that feeling because i felt the same 4 years ago. now that it’s gone, i’m saving that money to strive for my next dream. a dream that feels even closer now!!!
and to get to that dream, i have to keep dreaming. and that’s exactly what i’m doing!
but in the meantime, i’ll keep on enjoying life to the fullest. trying new things, meeting new people, and foiling until i get barreled! i’m almost there!!!
October 2, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report
Go Girl!
Good morning 5:45am.
North shore 4-6′ and good!!!
Ala Moana chest high and good!!!
Diamond Head head high and good!!!
Everywhere good!!!
Light winds so perfect conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!
