so happy to surf with the boys again! this was Nakagami-san’s first wave right after he got off the airplane. it must have felt great!

Tatsu-san’s smooth riding was perfect for the smooth waves.

i just love watching surfers pass me by, just like this…

calm wind in the morning, onshore by mid-day, then offshore again right when we paddle out. perfect timing for Nakagami-san.

pure stoke!

pure beauty!

pure local!

pure happy!

pure everything!

After surf snack: I’m Loving it!!!

Good morning 5:50am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and fun.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

surfed with Ito-san this morning. perfect conditions, perfect waves, perfect weather, and perfect everything. look how beautiful this ride is!

warm days with hot sessions.

so stoked to see Reina-chan putting her surfboard on the rail! more rail equals more speed. such beautiful surfing!

hot day so hot pho for lunch. thank you Ito-san for the exciting surf session!

i could never find a tako before because they would camouflage themselves so well. and i could never find take before because i’d always be looking for fish. so when i focused on hunting tako, i changed my perspective, my mind, and my vision to only see and feel eyes on me. so when the tako would blink, i would find him!

they are so smart that they can build a house. they are so smart that they can hide from you. and they are so smart they can trick you. there is a special technique in outsmarting them and when you can figure that out, it’s almost a 100% success rate of catching one when you see one. it’s actually pretty fun to do…