did you ever see ball sand before? well, of the hundreds of beaches i’ve been to around the world, there was only one beach with this type of ball sand. maybe i’ll get drunk one day and tell you where. or maybe not. haha. but yeah, it’s somewhere out there.

was talking to a friend about taking a freedive trip somewhere. somewhere we can spear tuna, somewhere we can eat poke, somewhere with no people, and somewhere i’ve never been before. when i find that somewhere, i’ll be there…

people ask me how i can work so much. well, a tranquil overnight trip to a secluded place is not too far away. that’s what keeps me so motivated to work hard so i can play harder…

Beautiful no wind days…

Good morning 5:40am.
Ala Moana chest high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.
Perfect morning conditions with no wind.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

when the winds are calm like this, it’s just a matter of time it will come onshore. and the hotter the morning, the sooner the onshore winds come. so this morning rushed to Diamond Head because the winds here are much better than Ala Moana side.

good to see Carter and Maki-san out enjoying the beautiful morning. surfing so good too!

ever since i got my new board which was only a couple days ago, i feel like foiling everyday again. this board was made for advanced foilers so it lets me get into tighter parts of the wave. feels more like surfing than foiling now. i can actually do bottom turns and off the lips now!

i have this quote on my desk because it reminds me of who to trust. i’ve heard it all in my lifetime. i’ve heard lots of broken promises, lots of false hopes, and lots of lies. so this got me through times when i’d question someone or something. hear it is…

I don’t trust words.
I trust actions.