Hurricane Kekoa Cazimero


remember 2 hurricanes ago? well, i paddled out and took this sequence of Kekoa Cazimero at the biggest spot on the island. lots of waves and lots of power. here’s the takeoff.

bottom turn setting up.

then driving off the bottom for the top.

eyes on the lip.

torque the body back down before hitting the lip.

then the momentum taking him perfectly off the top.

then slide the tail for some extra flare.

spin completely around.

disappear.

then reappear.

then get ready for the next one.

this is high performance surfing by Kekoa Cazimero. good to see you out there Kekoa!

September 19, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Isn’t nature so amazing???

Good morning 6:20am.
Ala Moana chest high and very good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and very very good.
Light winds so very good morning conditions. Afternoon onshore.
Sunny and very warm.
Have a very wonderful day!

Selfie Stick and Tako Poke


spent the morning in the ocean. so cool, so calm, and so relaxing… then went to fill up gas for Mayuki. so far, so smelly, and so expensive! haha. i guess sometimes you have to pay to play!

so on the way back right outside Waikiki, i did a quick spearfishing lesson on board. i didn’t do a good job by spearing this huge Moana Kali in the body, but i’ll eat it so it’s ok. i haven’t seen a big one like this in a long time and i can’t wait to put it in the steamer!

September is usually the month when the bigger tako start coming to the more shallow water. so i checked this little patch of rocks in the middle of the sea where tako love to hide in holes. i saw a total of 8, but i only took 3. that’s my new tako refrigerator because i know they will be there every time i go!

want to thank Tsujimoto-san for sending me the selfie stick photo! you surfed so good!