i use to dream of days like today. from morning to evening, the waves and conditions where as good as it gets. look at Oshima-san’s perfect dawn patrol wave!

so glassy and so smooth surfing. it was so fun to ride along and watch.

then i see this guy flying over the ocean at Bowls! it was Micah on his foil!

my friend told me that somebody was complaining about foilers at Bowls? Micah is the first one out there and i’m sure nobody would tell him to leave. because i know he won’t.

another amazing session for Oshima-san! in by 7:30am and a full happy day ahead…

then straight back out with first time surfer Hayashi-san. i told him on the beach that 99% of people i teach forget what i taught them on the beach once they paddle out. Hayashi-san’s answer was “i’m the other 1%.” haha. then he gets up on his very first wave and surfs it perfectly.

then he caught another one. by the 3rd wave, Hayashi-san was paddling and taking off on his own.

caught some pretty nice waves all the way from the outside to the very inside. he was totally stoked!

so happy to have met another excited and happy man from Kyoto! great job Hayashi-san!

then back out for round 3 with Park-san. waves still good and smiles still great.

then went out for my 4th round with my secret surfer. i ended up surfing 4 rounds totaling over 7 hours. i am completely fried! my face is so dark that i can’t even see myself unless i show my teeth. but hey, i’m smiling all day and all night. sweet dreams at 7pm…

driving by the main streets and seeing the homeless is pretty sad. the government is kicking them out of parks so this is the only place they can legally be. is it safe? i don’t think so…

is foiling safe? i was having a blast foiling the other day. so easy and so fun. then i hit a bump, i fell on my board, and almost broke my arm. so no, foiling is not safe. and i never said it was.

but safe to eat these wonderful snacks! thank you Fujiki-san!

and it was safe to eat these macadamia nut pancakes too! my island favorite.

seen this Father tandem surfing with his little Daughter around his neck. it was the cutest thing ever…

watching what happened at the US Open was the saddest thing ever. poor Naomi Osaka shouldn’t be crying. i was kind of disappointed in Serena Williams. there is a time and place for everything. so to steal the spotlight from this very young girl was not cool. now my tennis hero just switched from Serena to Naomi. and i’m sure i’m not the only one…

and Shohei Ohtani shocking the baseball world. i love it! i love to see Japanese athletes making history like this.

All day, everyday…

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets. Very good!
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, and rain coming.
Going surfing 4 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!