Endless Summer…

Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana waist high. Super clean!
Diamond Head shoulder high. Super windy!
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

today was the most beautiful day for foiling. good waves, good tide, and good times. set up my own foil and my training foil for the entertainment. you’re looking at $5,000 right there so look and don’t touch.

if there is anybody in this world that i thought that couldn’t foil, it was Naoka. he’s been asking me to take him and today was the day. it was either succeed, or go to the hospital.

first few waves, it took some practice. and of course i was right there to shoot it, and laugh too.

i was amazed by Naoka’s balance, until he looked down.

then the unimaginable happened! Naoka got up on this one wave and foiled it perfectly!!!! omg! he was flying and loving it!!! i actually couldn’t believe it because he was actually the fastest learner out of all of us. look at this stance and this is as perfect as it can be. i’m pretty sure nobody is going to believe that Naoka actually foiled! and everybody will be shocked too! haha.

one last wipeout, and one last laugh. haha.

went to have a nice local style lunch. seafood black bean with noodles. the best!

then went to pick up Hashimoto-san and surfed epic waves this evening at Bowls. it was so good!!!

just got home and soaked some deer meat for dinner. lean meat with lots of protein. i’m so hungry!!!

i was thinking today how my life would be without my camera? probably a lot simpler, but i’d be missing special moments like this. the clean and smooth bottom turn by Shunsuke-kun!

yesterday evening was empty. we scored perfect right after right, and left after left. and each wave, major improvements.

Shunsuke-kun learned how to surf for the first time 8 years ago. guess who thought him? yeah, my sister Tammy! so he knows all the Moniz kids. meeting Micah in the water was pretty cool.

then Isaiah paddled out yesterday evening for a few waves.

i always wanted to be a teacher and guide kids on the right path. so when Shunsuke-kun told me his dream of surfing everyday and living in Hawaii, i told him “ok, that’s a wonderful dream. but for now, focus on college, study hard, and get good grades.” he looked at me puzzled… so i said “the better you do in college, the better job you will get. and the better job you get, the more it will allow you to surf.” i think he understands exactly what i’m talking about now…

every time i pull into Halekulani Hotel, i get greeted by the most friendly surfers. the best service on the island…

this is one of the few hotels where they actually open car doors instead of just standing around and doing nothing.

and they don’t only take care of their hotel guests, they take care of everybody that drives through. this is the kind of service that makes hotels like this so successful…

heard about the fish market in Kuwait that actually puts fake eyes on the fish to make it look fresh? haha. that’s so funny…

and want to say “haisai” to my friends in Okinawa! wish i could have been at the Begin concert with you guys!!! hope to see you soon…