Locals having fun…

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana waist high an perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny wand warm.
Going surfing, surfing, and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

another day of perfect waves. and another day of morning till evening in the ocean. here is Troy serving up the morning off the lip…

ok, i’ve been teaching this kid how to surf for the past few days. he’s a great listener and a very smart kid. so i already know he will get better soon. BUT, i was in for a surprise when he took off on his very first wave at Bowls this morning.

i was following from behind when i seen him torque his body, raise his hands, and push on his back foot. i wasn’t expecting this because we didn’t get to that part of surfing yet.

then Shunsuke-kun freaking did an amazing off the top!!! what??? i couldn’t believe my eyes!!!

then he did another one, and another one as i was following him in awe…

then ended the wave with a cutback. i asked him after “what was that??? how did you learn that???” he said “it was my first time. it felt so good!” omg, this kid put together the past 3 surf lessons, figured it out, and showed me how it’s done. i was speechless after…

then we went to eat some poke and talk about our next lesson. i told him “i’m sure your Dad will be so stoked to see you surfing like this!” Shunsuke-kun told me he wants to surf even better than Dad. haha.

Ono Seafood in Kapahulu. make sure you choose the #1 and #7 combo over brown rice. the best!

thank you Maki-san for sending me this photo. i can’t wait to foil again!!!

look at my delicious deer meat dinner! so lean with lots of protein! just what i needed…

i couldn’t believe how good the waves were yesterday. so perfect and so empty??? where is everybody???

Hashimoto-san pretty much caught any wave he wanted. i was just watching him go wave after wave. then he would paddle back out with the biggest smile.

after all the days of Boot Camp, it was time to teach him how to turn. explained it for 1 minute and now this happy man can turn and do cutbacks! it was so fun to watch because i know he was so stoked.

every wave, every smile. now Hashimoto-san is up to a different level of surfing. more cool, more relaxed, and more stoked!

and when you learn step by step, you won’t forget a thing. Hashimoto-san is one of my top surfing success stories. if you seen him surfing 2 years ago, you wouldn’t believe how good he’s surfing now…

seen a guy snorkeling yesterday. he told me he lost his Apple Watch earlier. i wish i could have helped him because my hobby is treasure hunting. and i’m pretty sure i could have found it for him.

want to thank Maki-san for following me and filming. i never seen this angle of my foil before so it was good to learn from. i can feel like i’m surfing the wave better now and that’s always been my goal.

and my goal has always been to use the face of the wave when i do cutbacks. so i guess so far, i’m achieving my little goals. now i just have to find a way to get in the barrel. then my big dream will come true…