September 8, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Welcome to Longboard Paradise…

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
Light winds so perfect conditions everywhere.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing 3 round.
Have a wonderful day!

SURFXSURFXFOILXFRIDAY


it was our last day of Boot Camp with Hashimoto-san so since he was progressing so well, i put him on a shorter board and from the first wave, he was going twice as fast!

and smiling all the way!

it’s unbelievable how good the waves have been this year. absolutely perfect waves and weather.

Hashimoto-san is a true surfer. very happy and very good! so stoked to see him progressing so fast!

we went to eat some protein for lunch. prime rib protein. thank you Hashimoto-san for the amazing Boot Camp training! good job!

then went to surf with Ueda-san. totally calm and totally in control.

i caught a set from the way outside, and rode it all the way to the beach! then i grabbed my foil and rode my last wave all the way to the beach too! first time i rode to the beach twice in a day. i’ll try 3x tomorrow. haha.

then grabbed the foils for high tide foiling! Carter foiling so smooth!

i’m teaching Chifumi-san how to foil. a few more times and she’ll be foiling better then some of the boys. haha. no fear and flying high!

i was in the ocean for 3 rounds today. i am totally sunburnt!!! tomorrow i have 3 rounds coming up too so better go sleep. goodnight everyone…

Tomodachi in Okinawa


Ueda-san’s first day of Boot Camp. we scored perfect waves in the evening with nobody around us.

so many good rides and nice smiles.

sometimes i think i’m a little too strict with people, but that’s my policy. because sometimes being strict leads to wonderful results like this. so nice!

great job Ueda-san. see you again for Boot Camp Day 2. be ready!

when the Moniz boys were growing up, it was a dream of mine to be able to surf with them where ever and when ever. so when i’m surfing somewhere and someone says “hey Kirby, there’s one of your nephews paddling out.” i get so happy! here is Isaiah Moniz making Uncle very happy…

i get a text from Hayato saying “guess who i bumped into in Okinawa.” then he sends me this photo.

then right after, i get a text from Matsu saying “guess who i bumped into in Okinawa.” then he sends me this photo. haha. small world boys! wish i was there with you guys…

so sad to see yet another natural disaster in Japan. my heart hurts so much seeing things like this…