wow, it’s only 3pm and i feel like i had a full day of fun. started off with Fujiki-san this morning surfing Bowls. i couldn’t believe how perfect it was!

then seen this nice Omilu swim by me so started to get hungry.

so went to eat the best avocado sandwich on the island. maybe on this world.

so good!

then passed by my favorite bakery so stopped by to grab some Turtle Bread.

i can’t wait to see Fujiki-san’s face after he takes a bite out of this amazing bread filled with joy!

i seen the guy that was snorkeling around looking for his Apple Watch the other day. he freaking found it! and it still worked!!! so amazing!!!

then straight to pick up Ueda-san for some long amazing rides. it was so good! now going to load up the truck and head out for an evening surf session, followed by some food, beer, and music. hope you’re having an amazing weekend…

it’s crazy how a day could change your life. Ueda-san was a bit nervous on Day 1, but Day 2, he was so relaxed and enjoying each and every moment. it was amazing to see that! can’t wait for Day 3!

and the paddle back outs were much more rewarding.

keeping calm and loving the ride. this is what surfing is all about.

i just sat back and watched Ueda-san having the whole spot to himself. nobody was out!

i’m on the edge of another painful eye surgery. so in the afternoons when the UV rays are the strongest, i better protect my eyes. hopefully this works.

i’m so happy when i teach people how to foil and see them loving it. it feels like catching your very first wave again. you feel young, you feel reckless, and you feel free like a bird…

then when the bird falls, i can’t stop laughing. haha.

ok, is this for real??? Did Tesla CEO Elon Musk really smoke marijuana on live TV? what was this guy thinking??? if he was my friend, i’d call him up and say “you’re a total idiot!!!” then i’d say “you should start surfing dude. you really need it!”

Welcome to Longboard Paradise…

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
Light winds so perfect conditions everywhere.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing 3 round.
Have a wonderful day!