September 2, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Clean water is back!

Good morning 6:40am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and perfect.
Light winds so clean conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going foiling and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Baby Sleep Walking…


had an amazing time with the Masui-san family! Masui-san and i surfed Bowls this morning and the waves kept on growing! head high and perfect! not too many locals out because no parking! score!

then checked out Diamond Head this afternoon for my daily foil session. looked so good but it was way too hot. so came home and took a cool nap instead.

want to thank Misaki-san for the KitKat!

my last photos of my Cuba trip. Cuban water.

my Havana guide.

it’s crazy how an hour out the busy city can be so different. i came across this Cuban fisherman trying to catch dinner. super nice man telling me all his fishing tales.

out of the city, some of the nicest people you will ever meet.

and some the cleanest water on earth.

i was bodysurfing and loving life.

Mateus slept over last night. in the middle of the night, i went to use the toilet. right as i finished, i seen this little kid sleepwalking and going to the toilet with his eyes half closed. i watched him and guided him back to his bed. covered him with his blanked and kissed him goodnight again. so cute!!!

it’s crazy how kids grow up so fast. Mateus will always be a baby to me. haha…

Bye Bye Hurricane…


woke up and got a text from Asayama-san. so happy to see him surfing in Japan!

then i had to laugh when i like this photo. hey Asayama-san, “SMILE!!!” haha…

then walked out of my house and seen this beautiful rainbow. kind of made me smile…

surfed in the morning at Ala Moana with perfect conditions like this. no hurricane weather anymore…

then foiled with Carter at Diamond Head…

always good to see Ryo out too. super cool and mellow guy that surfs so good.

then Naoka was riding the most perfect wave in the sunset. i was taking photos thinking to myself “wow, Naoka is surfing so good!”

right after i say that, he falls. haha…

i’ve been pretty busy so haven’t had too much time to foil recently. so when i get the chance to, i’m so stoked! figured out how to do cutbacks so now my next goal is to do a “off the lip!” then the barrel right after that. but for now, going to enjoy each and every ride…