my little nephew Seth Moniz is sitting at #1 in the world right now on the WQS. i’m stoked on that. what i’m not stoked on is why my little nephew isn’t granted a wildcard for WCT events? up until now, it’s been automatic for top WQS seeds to get wildcards into events. so when 2 wildcards were given to Mikey Wright and Hiroto Ohara for the upcoming WCT event in Kelly Slater’s wave pool, a lot of people were asking why? Uncle Kirby can tell you why!

while the top pros in the world had a contest at Kelly Slater’s pool this summer, Seth Moniz sneaked away to an unknown pool in Texas and pulled off the biggest air anybody could imagine. so all the marketing and promotions Kelly Slater drew at his billion dollar wave pool just got squashed by a little kid flying in the air like a monkey. all the attention went to the pool in Texas thanks to Seth. Kelly wasn’t happy at all. so now Seth Moniz is on his shit list and will never get an invite to anything to do with Kelly Slater. so yeah, Kelly Slater, politics, and money are the reason why my little nephew isn’t getting a chance. Seth has to do it the hard way and when is turn comes up to destroy Kelly in his own wave pool, i’m going to fly there and watch it for myself.

sorry but i just had to express my feelings. i’ve been in this industry too long and know what happens deep within. i can’t sit back and let money and politics take anything away from my family. and i’m not the only one that thinks like this as the whole world is also wondering why?

Abunai!

Good morning 6:10am.
Ala Moana was it high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

good to see my Jamaican friend back in the water. he’s been out with a shoulder injury for the past 9 months. he’s one of the happiest surfers in the ocean but he told me he was suffering because he couldn’t surf. but now that he’s back, he told me that he’s felling “Irie!” which means “great!”

Abe-san feeling irie too! super cool surfer that’s been surfing Hebara for the past 30 years. i just paddled out and watched him enjoy his very first session at Bowls.

yeah, yesterday evening the waves just came up for a reason. just an hour of pumping chest high sets and we were super stoked!

i’ve been feeling irie too. just surfing and foiling everyday without any complications. i can jump on either and feel so free…

a beautiful spray is something a foil can’t achieve. so when i surf, that’s all i want to do…

last wave in for Abe-san. so good!

thank you Abe-san! your road to be a volunteer translator for the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo is very near. wish you the very best! make friends and make peace!

a girl asked me in the water where my favorite country to surf is. i told her “Indonesia.” she asked “why?” i told her “it’s very rewarding to travel half way around the world with good friends, paddle out to spots you’ve never surfed before, take off on waves and pulling into the finest barrels of your life. then when you come out, all your friends are watching from the boat that’s anchored in the channel.” what else more could you ask for? i’m feeling so irie!