
Summer fun…
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana knee/waist high and good.
Diamond Head waist/chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing and free diving.
Have a wonderful day!

Summer fun…
Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana knee/waist high and good.
Diamond Head waist/chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing and free diving.
Have a wonderful day!

gosh, i haven’t dawn patrolled in a while. felt so good to beat the sun out!

Boot Camp day 6 for Hattori-san and everything is super perfect.

averaging 20 waves/session so that’s 120 waves just with me. add in the 4x he surfed by himself, he caught 200 waves in a week. wow!!!

i average 5 waves a session. but i’m still so happy. i surfed twice this morning, and foiled this evening…

i hope to surf more dawn patrol sessions because it made me pretty happy this morning. to see the golden light that starts off the day is amazing.

thank you for the amazing days of Boot Camp Hattori-san. i’m super stoked for you!

came in and picked up the Rugby Boys for Day 2. another amazing day with amazing rides…

i met Nao Omura when she was only 14 years old. her dream was to become a professional surfer. she stayed at my house for a few years and we surfed every day at pretty much every spot you can imagine. from Diamond Head to Pipeline. she turned out to be a Japanese Champion Surfer and now is the girl who’s going to represent Japan for the 2020 Olympics!!! so stoked for this girl and super surprised to see an article in the Star Advertiser. congratulations Nao-chan!!!

Nao-san on the train with her precious cargo. hey Nao-san, isn’t your surfboard going to fall??? haha.

good to see Matsuo-san looking genki! thank you Nao-san for the photos.

if you compare Hattori-san to just 6 days ago, you wouldn’t believe how calm he’s gotten. just going with the flow and enjoying every ride along the way.

averaging 20 waves per session, that’s pretty amazing considering how long he’s riding each wave.

i just ride along and watch from a distance. just by looking at these waves, any surfer would be so stoked to catch 20 of these every day.

great job again Hattori-san! i’m amazing by your progress. keep it up as we get into our last day of Boot Camp!

on a waist high wave, i actually found a little barrel. stoked!

thank you Hattori-san for the snacks! so good!

Mateus watched the movie Karate Kid, and now he wants to do a one legged kick. i’m sure that will be very soon.

want to thank Toda-san, Takami-san, and Maki-san for the Yeti bucket. i’m teaching Mateus how to use the toilet in case of an emergency. haha.

and omg, this is any Captains nightmare… how did this happen???