August 17, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Swell clouds…

Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and good for long boarding.
Diamond Head chest high and good for foiling.
North shore flat and good for diving.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Clouds, sun, and very warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful Friday!

Lost @ Sea…


another day of Boot Camp with Hattori-san. can see some good results on the shortboard.

and even on the longboard. being able to ride either at any given time is talent. it’s all about keeping calm and looking forward…

i had fun long boarding yesterday too.

great job Hattori-san! get ready for more and more rides this week!

this is this first time i met twins that weren’t identical. Chiharu-chan and Chihiro-chan have totally different personalities. both so cute!

pretty funny watching young college Japanese surfer girls enjoying Hawaii so much. makes me want to be young again…

it’s been way too long since i speared an Ulua. all i need is a small one and i’ll have a weeks worth of carpaccio. maybe going hunting soon…

i miss the days of being a surf trip planner, surfer, diver, and photographer all at the same time. miss it so much that i’m already thinking of my next surf trip so i can do it all again…

at the end of each day on the other side of the world in the middle of the Indian Ocean, we can all sit back, watch the sunset, and reminisce on that days golden memories. nothing can beat moments like this…

August 16, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Clear the way! Here comes Keoni!

Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect for longboard.
Diamond Head chest high and perfect for foiling.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!