Cloud 9 Drone…


Hattori-san: better waves, better smiles, better stoke!

no, i don’t know how to operate a drone to get a photo like this. but i do know how to operate my foil and gopro at the same time to get the same effect. so amazing!

Boot Camp looking super good! longer rides and longer stoke!

pretty happy to be able to multitask. foil and shoot photos at the same time is not that easy. but i’m trying and enjoying every minute…

and no way you’re going to be able to get a photo like this on a surfboard. i jump on my foil and ride ahead of the wave. then turn around and shoot this. if i fall, we both get hurt. this by far the best shot from my foil i’ve ever taken. i’m still learning but when i see results like this, i’m so stoked!

had a couple of hours so went to the ocean to get dinner. it wasn’t the best conditions for diving, but i managed to get enough.

the freshest supermarket on the island. sashimi coming up!

cleaned and filleted the fish. packed it on ice, and ready for the refrigerator.

as i was coming in, i was memorized by the sky. look how beautiful the clouds were!!!

cleaned up, sipped on a cold draft beer, and enjoyed the most beautiful sunset we had in a while. the happy ending to another happy day!

August 17, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Swell clouds…

Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and good for long boarding.
Diamond Head chest high and good for foiling.
North shore flat and good for diving.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Clouds, sun, and very warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful Friday!

Lost @ Sea…


another day of Boot Camp with Hattori-san. can see some good results on the shortboard.

and even on the longboard. being able to ride either at any given time is talent. it’s all about keeping calm and looking forward…

i had fun long boarding yesterday too.

great job Hattori-san! get ready for more and more rides this week!

this is this first time i met twins that weren’t identical. Chiharu-chan and Chihiro-chan have totally different personalities. both so cute!

pretty funny watching young college Japanese surfer girls enjoying Hawaii so much. makes me want to be young again…

it’s been way too long since i speared an Ulua. all i need is a small one and i’ll have a weeks worth of carpaccio. maybe going hunting soon…

i miss the days of being a surf trip planner, surfer, diver, and photographer all at the same time. miss it so much that i’m already thinking of my next surf trip so i can do it all again…

at the end of each day on the other side of the world in the middle of the Indian Ocean, we can all sit back, watch the sunset, and reminisce on that days golden memories. nothing can beat moments like this…