Hurricane Surf Season in Hawaii


thank goodness i’ve kept this all these years. it’s helping my sore shoulder from playing too much. good to get the shock treatment when i wake up every morning…

Nao-san took this photo from her hotel. look at the last hurricane waves! you will never see swells like this lining up so close together. well, maybe you will see it again this week as another hurricane approaches…

so stoked to see Hattori-san surfing better and better each day.

surfing so calm and making no mistakes.

another beautiful day and ride in Hawaii! good surfing Hattori-san!

good to see Local Boy Ronnie out enjoying the SUP!

how did i meet Dave? well, about a year ago, Dave found my gopro in the parking lot. somehow it fell out of my car. he was nice and honest enough to call me up and return it to me. so i see Dave in the water yesterday. i told him how i lost that exact same gopro 6 months ago in the ocean, and somebody found it and returned it to me again. this is the same gopro that got lost twice i’m using to take this photos. he said “unbelievable.” yeah, it is pretty unbelievable. i just think i’m a very lucky guy…

August 18, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Mai-chan@Ala-Moana&Foil-Drone

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Playfull Surf


omg, today was one of most beautiful day of the year! picture perfect weather and super clean air. look at Oyama-san go!

such a cool guy and good surfer. we come from a small surfing world as Oyama-san knows people i know like Rickey from Okinawa, Inaba-san from Ichinomiya, and Fujii-san from Sakura Surf School. cool guys in a cool world!

and nice smile all day. this is how you surf relaxed…

it was so beautiful that the girls were out playing around in the free ocean. they were trying to make a heart shape? haha. almost girls!

last wave and thumbs up surfing today. great job!

Oyama-san, thank for the day in paradise!

and some delicious pho to follow.

i always order the combination meat with raw meat on the side. the best!

last, check out this interview on Stab about Seth Moniz. it’s about how the air in the Texas wave pool that went viral changed his life. it made a little confident kid more confident than ever. and that’s why he’s #1 right now!

***CLICK HERE FOR FULL STORY ON SETH MONIZ***