so happy to finally have some time to spend taking care of Mayuki and enjoying a relaxing morning brunch.

the kalua pig eggs benedict was amazing! probably the best i’ve ever eaten…

went out with my high school friends. after 4 beers, i wanted to sip on some fine whisky. so i ask the server what kind they have. he gave me this paper i could barely read??? i had no idea which one to order and didn’t want to make a mistake.

so i ordered a Jack Daniels and Coke instead. haha. can’t go wrong with this…

another evening with another group of precious friends. we are Kaiser High!

i just love surfing with everybody. i’ve been there and seen pretty much everything until i met Fujii-san. this amazing young man is 77 years old! he’s the oldest surfer i know who even surfs! and he’s the oldest surfer i’ve ever surfed with! i thought he was in his 50’s. unbelievable…

now i’m even more inspired than ever. Fujii-san is enjoying surfing so much at his age so it makes me look forward to surfing when i’m older too. such an inspiration…

last wave for the Day 2 of Boot Camp! see you again this afternoon for another day of happy surfing…

see the double rainbow? i do! haha.

Breakfast@WYC

Good morning 5:20am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing, surfing, and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

went out to Waikiki for a free dive lesson. i know a spot where there are big smart fish so we went to visit them.

when i jumped in, i saw them all there! the smart fish!

the Mu’u is the hardest fish to spear in Hawaii. they must have a big brain because they know how to keep a safe distance from you, and they know if you have a speargun or not. so it’s hard to get them to come close. and if they come in this close, you have one for dinner.

there are several techniques that i teach free divers. and if you follow those techniques, you can get the Mu’u to come this close.

the water was clean, the fish were all over, and it was very peaceful. this free diver is training to catch her own Mu’u someday. hopefully someday soon…

came back in, grabbed some longboards, and picked up Michi-san for Boot Camp day 3. waves were so fun!

when you get nervous, you forget everything i teach you. never ever panic and go on your knees like this!!! this is how people get hurt so that’s why i’m very strict about it. so after yelling at Michi-san, she never did this again.

and then her surfing got even better.

this is safe surfing, and this is happy times.

then went to pick up Fujii-san for a late afternoon session. after we came in, i couldn’t believe it when he told me he was 77 years old!! OMG!

Padang Padang contest is into the semi-finals. so stoked to see my 3 boys still going. Bol Adi Putra, Mega Semadhi, and I Made Widiarta all use to stay at my house when they came to Hawaii. they were kids back then so good to see them grow up to top Indonesian surfers. go boys!!!