when people ask me what age can they surf until, i use to say “um.. maybe 70 years old?” but after meeting Fujii-san, that has all changed. at 77 years old, this amazing surfer is good! he just moved the scale way up!

Fujii-san was loving the laugh after each long ride. super good improvements in the past 3 days of Boot Camp. this man has given me so much power to surf forever!

nice long last ride with Diamond Head in the back. it was so beautiful to watch this precious moment.

thank you Fujii-san! please tell everybody at Sakura Surf School in Higashihama that i said hello! you guys have a great surf club with some cool surfers. it’s a pleasure to meeting you and can’t wait to surf with you again…

it seems like months that i haven’t foiled because i’ve been so busy. i missed it so much that i couldn’t turn down an invitation from Micah even though i was so tired. we paddled out to Diamond Head in the evening and had the time of our lives…

Micah is foiling so good! i love to watch him ride wave into wave into wave. it’s crazy how a big guy like him can glide so gracefully over the ocean.

i had the best waves of my life, and i had the craziest wipeouts of my life. my last wave took me to the sandy beach so i was done…

Tony Moniz on one to the beach too. i’d say he rode this one for almost 2 minutes.

we were laughing and having so much fun. the 4 of us were like little kids that just started surfing again. it was amazing.

then went back up and talked more. i’d have to say that our lives are pretty dam good now. just to spend time with family and friends in the ocean has always been a dream for me. can’t wait till this evening so we can do it all over again. see you boys…

Micah and I @ Foiling @ Sunset Time

Good morning 6:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good to surf.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good to foil.
Waikiki chest high and good to longboard.
Winds 30mph and good to windsurf.
Sunny and warm and good to relax.
Going to have a good day.
See you in the water!

it was Boot Camp Day 4 for Michi-san and the waves were much bigger than the past 3 days! took a while to get warmed up but once the nerves cooled off, the rides were amazing!

a very strong and determined girl. every year her level is going up and that’s what i like to see!

great job Michi-san! your last wave this morning was awesome!

i’ve been riding an 11’0 longboard and enjoying the easy rides.

then went surfing with Mr. Inspiration. Fujii-san is inspiring so many surfers that want to surf forever. and now he’s inspired me…

then for my 3rd session, i went foiling with the boys. here is Tony Moniz making the Diamond Head hike…

when i started foiling, i use to sit in the inside and every beginner use to run me over. now i’m the beginner on the outside so it’s my turn? haha. i told this guy today he shouldn’t sit inside of me because my fin is bigger than his. he looked at me like i was crazy.

came home and my friend Chico from 12 years old was at my house fixing his VW. so we popped open a beer and started talking about the good old days. i still blame Chico for turning little innocent 12 year old Kirby into a real life monster. haha…

then had dinner at home. started off with a fresh salad.

then a juicy ribeye steak cooked medium rare. after my 3 sessions today, i needed this protein power! good night from beautiful Hawaii!