Just the local uncles out this morning again.  Slow waves but perfect if you have the right surfboard.

Ojiro-kun looking super good today.  He’s gradually making his way down to his goal, which is to shortboard.

Perfect style and perfect smile.

Ojiro-kun asked me how he can paddle faster.  I told him, “get off your board and swim in.”  Experiences like this is the only way to build padding muscles.  He ended up swimming all the way in.  Not too many surfers can swim that far without giving up.

Straight back out for Round 2 with Kaneko-san.  We were working on his backside surfing as it will only make his frontside surfing better.

Super cool guy that surfs in Chiba.  He couldn’t believe how far out to sea we were.  In Chiba, you can literally walk out to the surf break.  Not in Hawaii.

Good rides on a magic board.  Another epic day in Hawaii!

Another freak accident happened yesterday in the Mentawai Islands.  This young girl was surfing at Beng Beng’s when a small swordfish jumped out of the water and struck her in her chest.  She died.  As a surfer, it really hurts to hear stories like this.  We’ve been to the Mentawai’s, we’ve surfed Beng Beng’s, and we experienced swordfish jumping in the ocean.  But for one to strike you in the heart and kill you while you’re surfing, that’s crazy.  Who knows when it’s our time to die?  But as every hard core surfer will tell you, dying doing what you love is the best way to go.  My condolences to this girls family and friends.  She’s still surfing the wave that will never end…

Double at Diamond Head!

Good morning 4am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!