Round 1 this morning at Bowls.  Still some leftover South swells if you are patient.  We are patient.

Of course, Malcom on the best ones of the day.  Nice style.

Great surfing again today.  Looking more calm than ever.

Waking up every morning and surfing perfect waves never gets boring.  It’s just too beautiful.

Cutback!  Yeah!

Yes, Malcom again on a good one.  Laughing all the way home.

I like days like this when just the local boys and girls are out.  It’s called “local time.”

Round 2 at Diamond Head.  Lots of progress and striving towards our goals.  Goodnight.

I just started watching this documentary about a sailor that has lived on his boat his whole life.  I have no idea how it’s going to end, but the first part of the movie was this screen shot.

“When a sailor can’t go on anymore, he sets out for his final voyage, never to return.”

That caption hit deep in my heart because my Step-father went out for his final voyage and never returned.  I was 8 years old at the time and couldn’t understand it.  Some say it was a mistake, some say it was an accident, and some it was intentional.  We will never know but what I do know is that he was a great influence in my ocean life.  I can understand why he did what he did.  I can understand how it made him feel.  And I can understand that without it, life won’t be the same.  So when watermen sets out for their final voyage, I think that’s the most beautiful thing in the world that I respect a 100%.

Yesterday once more:  Best conditions for the South Shore.

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm with big rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!