I was so excited that the waves finally got small and the tide was super high in the morning. I was waiting for this day because I wanted to foil really bad. And today was that perfect day for that! Epic conditions, king high tide, and knee high waves that will make you fly like a bird!
It’s been so long but I still can foil! And the feeling of going so fast and feeling so free is amazing. It’s also the best workout in the world. When I came in, I was so exhausted, so content, and so happy. And it was still 7:30am?
Like most surfers, I was once hooked on golfing. But when I started wishing the waves were junk so I could go golf with the boys, I knew it was time to quit. These clubs were under my house for decades and are probably collector items. Haha. I just threw it away in the trash and don’t regret a thing. My dream of a “hole in one” came true so I’ll never look back…
