had an amazing day 2 with Nao-san. started off early with some good surfing.

i told Nao-san that i wasn’t going to baby her anymore. i want her to do it on her own so she can get better faster. once i said that, she started catching waves on her own. so proud of her!

every time she paddled back out, she had the biggest smile on her face.

so stoked to see Nao-san’s progress! surfing so much better than yesterday. look at this beautiful wave! this is perfect surfing.

then went to eat some pho for lunch. was so delicious.

then we jumped in the buggy and took a tour around the island. it couldn’t have been a better day for that.

stopped by Ted’s Bakery for dessert. this is the best pie in hawaii! chocolate haupia cream!

then went to stop by the HIC Pro at sunset beach. some nice waves!

then went to check out pipeline. can’t wait to get barreled out there this year!

then went to check out haleiwa. looked the most manageable today. 4′ and fun.

then went to eat the best snow puff in hawaii. sweet!

then came back to town and ate a waiola shave ice. i couldn’t believe how much sweets Nao-san ate today! every woman has space in their stomachs for sweets yeah? haha.
long wonderful day. thank you Nao-san! see you tomorrow.

Feel so Free! Yeah!

i was thinking to myself when i went to a japanese style bbq in hawaii, “wow, deer, fish, chicken, poke, beers, friends, and so much fun!”

i was thinking to myself when i went to UH to buy a computer, “wow, i miss the days of being a college student with absolutely no stress in life.”

i was thinking to myself when i went to the yacht club, “wow, i can’t believe i can go out for a ride anytime i want.”

i was thinking to myself when i took Nao-san surfing, “wow, i have the best job in the world.”

i was thinking to myself when i was doing a headstand while surfing, “wow, this is such a cool view.”

i was thinking to myself when i was changing the battery to my watch, “wow, i can’t believe i can still see these small screws.”

i was thinking to myself when i heard that AR-15 gun sales are up 500% recently, “wow, america is becoming a very dangerous place to live.”