I was thinking to myself, "WOW"

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i was thinking to myself when i went to a japanese style bbq in hawaii, “wow, deer, fish, chicken, poke, beers, friends, and so much fun!”
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i was thinking to myself when i went to UH to buy a computer, “wow, i miss the days of being a college student with absolutely no stress in life.”
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i was thinking to myself when i went to the yacht club, “wow, i can’t believe i can go out for a ride anytime i want.”
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i was thinking to myself when i took Nao-san surfing, “wow, i have the best job in the world.”
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i was thinking to myself when i was doing a headstand while surfing, “wow, this is such a cool view.”
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i was thinking to myself when i was changing the battery to my watch, “wow, i can’t believe i can still see these small screws.”
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i was thinking to myself when i heard that AR-15 gun sales are up 500% recently, “wow, america is becoming a very dangerous place to live.”

November 4, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report


Happy Birthday Matsu! A great year ahead for you!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 4-6’. Laniakea and Sunset best.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny, warm, beautiful day.
Going surfing and circle island.
Have a wonderful day!

Surf and Garlic Chicken

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so good to see Nao-san back here in hawaii! this girls works super hard in japan so when she comes to hawaii, it’s play time. surf and yoga playtime!
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i took Nao-san surfing for the first time last year. we surfed twice back then. then she went back to japan and surfed shikoku twice with Kaori-chan. i knew from the beginning she would get hooked on surfing. and now she is. haha.
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one of her dreams is to get better in surfing. so in the next 5 days, her dream will surely come true. in fact, it already is.
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great job Nao-san! see you tomorrow morning!
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gosh, i keep thinking i’m living in a dream. is this real?
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some garlic chicken and panang curry plates in downtown. good surf, good food, good life.