i get up early this morning, spend 2 hours online deciding where to go. and finally decide and book my flight to Yangon, Myanmar! confirmed and leaving tomorrow! so stoked! i started getting excited!

then went to pick up the boys for another morning of boot camp.

the boys came prepared! check out Nagashi-san on a set! and look at Yoshino-san behind taking the drop. awesome wave for the boys!

once your fix some minor things, surfing becomes very easy. and when you start to look up, you will see a whole new world!

great surfing Nagashi-san! and nice smile!

rescue helicopter flying pretty low yesterday. hope everything was ok.

when i was paddling out, some of the guys were telling me that the waves were super small and slow. maybe it was earlier, but not now. check out Yoshino-san on the nice set!

better balance, better style, and better life.

great job Yoshino-san! so stoked to see you enjoying the ride.

these boys run a ramen shop in chiba. so tasting the best pho in hawaii was a must. glad they liked it! see you guys bright and early tomorrow morning! get ready for some golden sunrise surfing!

i had a weird feeling about this trip so when i came home, i checked the weather for Yangon. omg! thunderstorms everyday!!! what’s going on???

opps, i forgot about the super typhoon! it’s going to dump heavy rain all over south/east asia. so i cancelled my Yangon trip and looked for another destination.

look how beautiful this is! if everything goes right, i’ll be here in a few days. but once again, things change very fast around here. nobody knows until i actually board the airplane tomorrow. haha.

there was only one place in town yesterday afternoon that had chest high perfect waves. a place that catches the east wind swell. everywhere else was flat, but not were we surfed.

Yamaguchi-san knows and surfs with all the boys at Wavy Surf. so a friend of the Wavy crew is a friend of mine. we surfed for almost 4 hours straight and i couldn’t believe how empty it was. perfect for us to practice!

Yamaguchi-san told me he doesn’t like to surf backside. so guess what? i took him to surf only backside. i explained to him that if you can’t surf backside good, you can’t surf frontside good. so we practiced doing some backside cutbacks.

after a few waves, he was getting it down perfectly.

and when you get it down perfectly, you will smile perfectly. Yamaguchi-san told me after “i like surfing backside now!” i told him “now, your frontside surfing will improve a lot. just wait and see.”

dream afternoon session. great job Yamaguchi-san! please say hi to all the boys at Wavy Surf!

surfing into sunset was amazing. the best way to end the perfect long day of surfing and laughing.

i checked Myanmar, Mongolia, Turkey, Morocco, Spain, Namibia, Peru, and even Bolivia. no tickets available because so last minute. so now i’m thinking of just going to Japan and eating sushi? or hunting in Molokai? maybe i’ll do both? haha.

Halloween in Hawaii soon!
Good morning 6am.
North shore flat.
Ala Moana waist/chest high and super clean.
Diamond Head chest high and super windy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!