did you see this dolphin jump right into this surfer? lucky the surfboard had a hole, and not the surfer.

two consecutive days of competition in costa rica, a crocodile comes through the lineup during the contest. i was afraid for my nephew Seth Moniz because he was actually surfing in that contest.

ok, more toys for Mateus! he already knows what he has to do. close your eyes right?

this time, it’s from Rikita-san and Toshimi-san! i wonder what’s inside???

omg, an anpanman train!!! score!

what? more???

omg, i’m so happy! thank you Uncle Rikita and Aunty Toshimi!

and thank you guys for my presents too! itadakimasu!

Natures finest moments!
Good morning 6am.
North shore still big!
Solid 6-10’ and good!
Sunset and Haleiwa best.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and very warm summer day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

so happy to come home and eat dinner with Mateus. it’s not good manners to eat and play but i always try to play with him while he eats. haha.

i just needed to get away from the people this afternoon so i went to my secret spot. a place i can always be myself, and by myself.

my private photographer was on the beach coaching me into waves. when ever there would be a set, she would yell “outside!!!” then i would paddle outside and get the set. so easy!

then after i catch a wave, she would yell “yeah!” then i would paddle back out laughing to myself. why? because she reminds me exactly of me. thank you Mia F. for the amazing coaching and photos!

and want to thank Carter for the Don Julio! omg, i need help drinking all this tequila!

and want to thank Toda-san and Takami-san for the Pale Ale. this is my favorite beer now!

and want to thank Hikaru-san for the Jacksan. Jacksan is my best friend!

and want to thank Maki-san for the MiiR thermos. this supposed to be able to hold carbonated drinks in for 3 days! perfect for my Jack/Coke! haha.

and want to thank myself for my present to myself. my new iPhone 7. score!