Live the Life you Love!

had an awesome surf this morning with a super cool surfer girl. she didn’t want me to post her photos so i won’t. but our 3 hour session was amazing! the photos came out beautiful so just use your imagination.
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then went to meet Miwa-san this evening. Miwa-san’s been translating my blogs for many years now. if it wasn’t for her, my blog wouldn’t be in japanese. she told me that she just wanted to watch the sunset with her mom and aunty. i said ok, but took a couple surfboards just in case. and once we got out to the ocean, she wanted to surf! i knew it! haha.
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so Mama-san and Aunty-san sat on Mayuki while we went out to catch a few waves.
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i know a spot that will guarantee be empty right before dark. so when we pulled up and only seen one guy out, i knew we were going to score! Miwa-san on her first wave!
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surfing into the sunset is amazing.
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Miwa-san’s surfing is getting much better. and she’s smiling a lot more too!
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when we passed by bowls, there were 20 surfers out. it felt good to search for waves and have it all to ourselves. great surfing Miwa-san!
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Mama-san and Aunty-san were cheering on the boat. these ladies were making me laugh and laugh the whole time. it was hilarious.
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watched the golden sunset sipping on cold beers.
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came in at dark watching all the lights go on in waikiki.
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then laughed and laughed more at dinner. i had a fun time with these three beautiful ladies. can’t wait to do it all over again!

Amazing Day!


Yeah! So good!

Uhu, Deer, Heli, and BBQ

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Maki-san had a lot of dreams i didn’t know of. one is to be a helicopter pilot, and another was to go to molokai. one down, one to go.
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we were so lucky that our pilot altered the flight course so we could fly over the Waihine Molokai to Oahu Canoe Race. they just started and it was awesome to watch from the air.
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then he flew over the south coast, the first time for me!
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right when we land, the first thing we do is head to the beach. the very white sandy beach. the girls do their thing, and the boys do their thing. this is what you call “relax time.”
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and when it gets a little hot, you go jump in the ocean and cool a little down. private secluded beaches all to ourselves!
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Toda-san dropped my off on the street up from our house. they went to drive to a waterfall so i was diving by myself. i shot my first fish when a huge 8′ shark tried to eat it off my spear. it’s bleeding so much as i put it on my float. the aggressive shark circling me and trying to eat it. i pull it away and protect my fish. by that time, i was way out in the ocean thinking to myself “gosh, this shark is hungry. i better get out of here.” so i swim a few minutes away and continue diving. yes, i know sharks can swim a few minutes away, but it’s just mental for me. anyway, managed to get another uhu and that was enough for dinner so i went in.
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one of the uncles told me the sharks are very aggressive because they aren’t use to seeing people. i was telling him how i was tugging my line to prevent the shark from eating our dinner. he was laughing.
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then Franky grabbed the fish, and without saying anything, he started to clean it.
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then Dino started up the bbq and cooked some steaks.
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Dino also brought out a few pieces of deer meat.
we sit down, listen to music, have a few beers, and enjoy our first night in molokai under the stars. it was an awesome long day!