omg, the waves were super good again this morning. just perfect conditions and very long rides. and the best thing was, hardly anyone out!!! Nakamoto-san scored!

every time i surf with Nakamoto-san, i try to have him catch more and more waves. the more waves you catch, the better you will get. so after 25 or so rides, we called it a day.

i just love the early morning sessions. pure glassy perfection!

great job Nakamoto-san! you’re getting better and better each wave! super stoked for you!

i’m always looking for the barrel. size don’t matter.

and some mushroom chicken at Yajima-ya. a great way to end a great morning.

check out the hot housing market in hawaii! $1,202,219 (122,402,730.47 JPY) for an average house in honolulu. remember i said “average.” if you want something decent, better have double that. and guess what? prices are going up and up. scary!

my body felt so good from going to the gym the other day, so i went again. this time went to the ala moana gym and couldn’t believe the upgrades. it’s been years and years i haven’t been there. i had to look around to see where everything was.

they made it much bigger, and more spacious. seen a lot of guys working out for a sunday afternoon.

i just go in there and do my own thing. work out to the sounds of Neil Diamond for about 1.5 hours. working on different muscles that i don’t use for surfing. just want to keep well balanced.

so many people are asking me about taiwan. i just say “hey, i have friends up there, that’s why we score. simple.”

and i get asked how the waves are. i say “there’s no wave like this in hawaii. just imagine surfing trestles in california. it’s like that minus the hundred of surfers. so a perfect point right and left you can do anything you want on. get barreled, off the lip, cutback, or even go straight.

and yes, there are only a few locals that drive 8 hours to get to these secret spots. and yes, all of them are really cool and inviting. always smiling and absolutely no hassling.

i haven’t seen so many perfect unridden waves in a while. makes me want to go back there really soon. and i’ll probably do that on my next vacation.

want to thank Hikaru-san for the japanese treats! itadakimasu!

after the hepatitis A outbreak that started at Genki Sushi, they finally reopened all stores. will you ever see me eating there? absolutely not!

Glassy summer days continue! I love it!
Good morning 5:40am.
Ala Moana knee/waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist/chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm summer day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!