my body felt so good from going to the gym the other day, so i went again. this time went to the ala moana gym and couldn’t believe the upgrades. it’s been years and years i haven’t been there. i had to look around to see where everything was.
they made it much bigger, and more spacious. seen a lot of guys working out for a sunday afternoon.
i just go in there and do my own thing. work out to the sounds of Neil Diamond for about 1.5 hours. working on different muscles that i don’t use for surfing. just want to keep well balanced.
so many people are asking me about taiwan. i just say “hey, i have friends up there, that’s why we score. simple.”
and i get asked how the waves are. i say “there’s no wave like this in hawaii. just imagine surfing trestles in california. it’s like that minus the hundred of surfers. so a perfect point right and left you can do anything you want on. get barreled, off the lip, cutback, or even go straight.
and yes, there are only a few locals that drive 8 hours to get to these secret spots. and yes, all of them are really cool and inviting. always smiling and absolutely no hassling.
i haven’t seen so many perfect unridden waves in a while. makes me want to go back there really soon. and i’ll probably do that on my next vacation.
want to thank Hikaru-san for the japanese treats! itadakimasu!
after the hepatitis A outbreak that started at Genki Sushi, they finally reopened all stores. will you ever see me eating there? absolutely not!
