OMG! 20 second barrels?

when ever i go on trips, i try to maximize the day from sunrise to sunset. so if you come with me, be ready to wake up at 4:30am because i’m already up and ready to go. then when the trip is over, you can go home and tell yourself “i missed nothing!” and hey, why would you want to miss this?

Saito-san is still trying to adjust to my fast pace. a couple more trips together and he’ll be waking me up. haha.

surfing the east side anywhere in the world, you will awaken to mother nature shining a golden light into your face. shine on!

this river mouth left was so fun. my goofy foot friends back in hawaii would go crazy for this!

this is my way to start the morning. yoga surfing! deep breath and relax. namaste.

i thought nobody in the world has more toys than i do, that’s until i met Mori-san. he even has a lucky dog named Emi!

this is full country side. just so green and blue. just like hawaii.

Mori-san has the coolest new boat. named Ocean Rider and is so fast! i just love the speed!
tomorrow will be our last day here so guess what time i’m waking up? yes, 3:30am. good night.

omg, i think we scored big time! i really didn’t expect good waves like this, but hey, i’ll take it. pulled up early this morning to some head high perfect surf. the closest wave in the world i would compare this secret spot to is Trestles in california. except, without the 100 surfers. there was nobody out this morning! Mori-san and i took turns on wave after wave for 2 hours. it was like a dream session!

and the food here is incredible! last night’s dinner at a local taiwanese restaurant. this was just our appetizers.

and the hot sour soup was amazing! omg, the best!

steamed dumplings cooked to perfection. when you drop on of these in your mouth, it explodes with a juicy flavor.

my plan was to head back monday night from narita. BUT, when i looked at this chart, i thought i’d better think of an alternative plan. this typhoon is being labeled the most craziest typhoon in the history of typhoons. i’ve never seen one like this in the past 25 years! and to think i’m surfing the swells from this monster here in taiwan is unbelievable. going to take a nap and get ready for your epic evening session. good night.