Mai-chan wanted to surf before her flight back to japan so we did it at dawn patrol. and turns out she ended up riding the best wave of her life!

oh gosh, the early morning beauty makes me so happy.

i’m sure this girl was smiling on the 9 hour flight back to japan. i would be. great job Mai-chan!

then went to pick up Rie-san. when she told me she wanted to get better in surfing, i said “ok, i’ll be very strict. so be ready.”

like most regular footers, Rie-san doesn’t like to go left. so i start off by making her go left. kept on going left until she liked it.

then she tried out the shortboard and rode it on her very first wave. this is part of training. riding a variety of boards will make you a better all around surfer.

Rie-san could barely turn before this session. then she started going left, then right, then learned how to do perfect cutbacks. there was even a time when a big set came and i yelled “go!” she turned, took off, ride it right, and got her first ever barrel! i saw her coming out of the barrel with the biggest smile on her face! i’m sure she will never forget that wave for the rest of her life. we surfed for 5 hours yesterday and rode too many waves to count.

awesome cutbacks, awesome rides, awesome barrel, awesome lunch, awesome gelato, and awesome smiles. now Rie-san is even more addicted to surfing! thank you for the awesome day!

Secret Spot!
Good morning 4:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and windy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and very warm day.
Going surfing 3 rounds.
Have a wonderful day!

early morning surf with Mai-chan.

beautiful rainbow before the sunrise.

mid-morning surf with Rie-san.

mushroom chicken lunch time.

afternoon surf with Rie-san.

we surfed 5 hours! very sunburnt!

left my house at 5:30am.
got home at 8:45pm.
very tired and sunburnt. tomorrow another long and amazing day in the ocean! good night.