Namaste!
Good morning 5:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny, warm, with cool trade winds.
Surfing all day. Dawn patrol now!
Have a wonderful day!

omg, had the most amazing time this morning with these 3 surfers from japan. they are from Shiga-ken so there is no ocean. the nearest water is Lake Biwako. Otsuka-san told me you can actually surf in the lake during a typhoon swell. but that only happens once in 10 years. gosh, i hope i can time it right someday.

Otsuka-san is the most experienced of the group. super stoked watching him catch long rides. he was so stoked!

and Wataru-san caught some awesome waves too!

Daichi-san super focused and going for the long ride.

so stoked to see friends sharing waves with each other.

and yes, the best surfers view in the world!

the smile and stoke tells it all. everybody very happy to surf an epic session in hawaii!

thank you boys for the wonderful time! hope you get some waves in Biwako for the next typhoon. maybe i’ll see you there!

ok, rewind to yesterday. i was picking up Mrs. Spontaneous Mai-chan in the morning so i really didn’t know what to expect. i’m just glad the weather was perfect so anything would have been amazing.

first, she wanted to surf, so we surfed. only one year and already this good on the shortboard. amazing.

Mai-chan told me her dream was to surf in the 2010 olympics. don’t be surprised if you see this girl winning a medal.

then day 2 of free diving? omg, she can dive super deep already.

and coming up very comfortably. a very fast learner.

ever took a selfie in the ocean? i found a way how to do it and you wouldn’t believe me if i told you how.

and you wouldn’t believe me if i told you a big tako tried to attack me. i thought i’d be the tako poke this time.

so many firsts for this girl. first time driving a boat and doing an excellent job.

after we eat a huge mexican lunch, i was thinking “nap time?” but Mai-chan was thinking “hiking time!” haha. so we headed into the wet muddy wild.

of course, we decide to go hiking only a few minutes ago so we didn’t have shoes. another hike with slippers???

omg, the slippers didn’t work so we ended up doing the full hike and back barefoot.

yes, it was a beautiful day for both the ocean, and the mountain. from the deep blue, to the bright green.

we finally got up to the waterfall super muddy. so the only way to rinse off is to jump in the freshest mountain water! thank you Mai-chan for another adventurous day. you are super energetic and super spontaneous. i wouldn’t be surprised if you’re doing it all again today. haha. have a safe trip back to japan and remember the most important thing: enjoy your life and keep on surfing!