Mega Wins!

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so stoked that Mega won the contest at padang padang yesterday! this is the coolest kid you will ever meet and he deserves all the good that comes to him. awesome job Mega!
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yes, the waves were going off and Mega took out the top of the world barrel surfers. and yes, this is right in his backyard. i just wanted Mega, Bol, or Garut to win. i just love those kids!
2016 Rip Curl Cup Final Results:
1. Mega Semadhi (IND) 19.00
2. Damien Hobgood (USA) 16.60
3. Mason Ho (HAW) 15.50
4. Clay Marzo (HAW) 4.00
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Mega and Garut stayed at my house the first time they came to hawaii. i took them to bowls, took them to pipeline, and introduced them to the boys everywhere. we had a great time and by looking at this photo, you can see who is into peace, and who is into gangster style. haha.
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omg, today was so beautiful again!
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had a sandwich for lunch. and tried a black tea latte for the first time. i loved it!
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want to thank Koike-san for the miso soup! going to take it on my next molokai trip.
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and thank you Matsuda-san for the gifts. i could really use this!
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i surfed this morning and got some good photos of Kondo-san. then afternoon when i went surfing with Yamada-san, i dropped my gopro in the waves. i lost it!!! i was super bummed out. not because i lost the $400 gopro, but because i lost all the photos in it. BUT, i thought positive and guess what? i found it 2 hours later!!! and you’re not going to believe where it was! i was so happy! but for now, i better go to sleep because 7 hours in the water today and 2 hours of shock took out all the energy in me. good night.

Rio and Zika

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pulled up to Hawaii Five-O filming at the hilton lagoon yesterday. gosh, i love that show!
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the famous Kamekona Shrimp Truck! Hattori-san watches Hawaii Five-O too so he was stoked to see them filming.
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gosh, sandy beach was so beautiful yesterday! clean water, blue sky, and sandy beaches.
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and even bluer was makapuu. postcard beautiful.
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they just tested the water in Rio, Brazil and declared it to be totally unsafe. a lot of people don’t realize that there are many countries where millions of people just poop right in the rivers leading out to the ocean. it happens in most of south america, central america, south east asia, india, and many more countries. i’ve seen it first hand so i know how dirty it is. and yes, we surf the river mouths like fools. so am i surprised about brazil? nope.
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and now that the Zika virus has been found in 14 people bit by mosquitos in florida, it’s time for america to start worrying as a travel warning just went up. so yes, worry america! as for me, most of my traveling destinations have all been declared danger zones. bummer.

August 2, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report

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Yesterday @ Blue Makapuu. Beautiful!
Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets. Clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Rainy morning becoming sunny. Very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!