Forty Rainbow in the Mist

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had an awesome day with Hattori-san today. he’s only been surfing for 6 years so he’s another new born surfer.
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rode on the side of him as he caught two of the longest waves in his life! i could tell he was so stoked!
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surfed until our arms said “no more.” haha. we were both so tired!
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every time i see a rainbow, it reminds me of the time i told my one of my friends “i can see 40 rainbows a day!” he didn’t believe me but if you look in the back of every single wave when it’s off shore, you will see a rainbow every time. so yes, i saw 40 rainbows today!”
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we got so hungry so went for a hawaiian lunch experience at Highway Inn.
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we both ordered the laulau combination plate and ate it all!
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then went for a drive around. it was such a beautiful day! thank you Hattori-san for the wonderful day!
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only 5 surfers at diamond head this afternoon? where is everybody?

Lovely Family of Surfers

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i was so happy to see the Matsuda-san family again! i’ve known them for so long that it felt like i was seeing my own family again. Kaito-kun 13 years old and all grown up. and looking like a fine young man.
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here is Kaito-kun about 5 years ago. so cute!
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Kaito-kun didn’t forget a thing! he only surfs in hawaii so he’s only been surfing with me. and watching his progress is so thrilling! 13 years old, size 28cm feet, and tall as me. omg, this kid is a tall good looking young man!
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Kaito-kun gets his height from his father. Matsuda-san is very tall and has a lot of energy. he surfed the whole afternoon while we were out.
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and caught some amazing long waves! perfect!
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then it was Sachiko-san’s turn. a very smooth and confident surfer. never forgets a thing and surfs like she surfs everyday in japan. but the thing is, she doesn’t. i still don’t understand how some surfers can improve without even surfing?
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Sachiko-san caught the longest and smoothest rides of the day. it was so fun to watch.
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i have a really close bond with this beautiful family.
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the reason why is we’ve known each other for very long. this is the first time i met when Kaito-kun was only 6 years old. i remember taking them to the west side and surfing some big waves! i’ll never forget that!
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and yesterday i got my first use of a selfie stick. perfect end to a perfect day! thank you to the Matsuda-san family for all the years of memories.

August 1, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report

komodo
Komodo Dragon Fight!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high and bumpy.
Diamond Head chest high and junky.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, rain, and rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!