Surfing Kazoku means "Family Surfers"

Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.22.50 PM
i had an amazing time with the wonderful Inada-san surfer family. Ruriko-san surfed a few times before but never stood up. so today was her real surfing debut.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.21.44 PM
and on her first wave, she stood right up and surfed it perfectly! she was so surprised, and so stoked!
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.21.27 PM
we both were so happy. priceless moments like this make me very happy! great job Ruriko-san!
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.23.21 PM
then it was Inada-san’s turn. he wanted to go to the outside and catch the sets.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.24.33 PM
smooth glassy surfing. even though he didn’t surf since the last time he came to hawaii, he got better somehow. so stoked!
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.30.42 PM
and i just love riding on the side yelling the whole way. it’s my kind of boot camp. haha.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.25.30 PM
then it was Kaho-chan’s first time surfing. at 7 years old, it must be so nerve racking. of course she’s freaking out, but i like the challenge. she kept on looking at the reef.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.26.32 PM
then on her first wave, she stood up and was kind of scared. it must be such an adrenaline rush riding on top of the water? haha.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.26.43 PM
then after a few words of me yelling from behind, she relaxed and enjoyed the moment.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.28.53 PM
and i jump off on purpose i can make her laugh instead of cry. haha. usually the kids laugh when they see me falling down onto the shallow reef.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.30.22 PM
this little girl is so dam cute! we had such a great time surfing together.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.28.34 PM
then Kaho-chan got the confidence to keep on surfing.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.27.51 PM
i can’t wait to take this kid surfing again. i know next time will be twice the fun! as we were paddling in, Kaho-chan told me “we are Surfing Kazoku!” that was so cool to hear coming from such a young 7 year old girl. i hope she gets hooked on surfing just like her parents. haha.
IMG_2209
then it was off to lunch. we were so hungry! and right after we left, we all got so sleepy.
Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 2.31.27 PM
driving back after a great surf session and a delicious lunch is so awesome. i’m sure this surfer family took a great nap in the afternoon. thank you to the Inada-san family for the memorable day! keep on surfing!
as for me, i drank a coke and got my second wind. went to pick up another cool surfer family and had an amazing afternoon! be back tomorrow morning. for now, good night.

Surfers Forgiveness

a couple of years ago, i got into an argument with another local surfer. he did something that i couldn’t forgive. we almost got into a fist fight in the water. we crossed each others paths a few times after that and had a few stare downs. neither of us would back down. i had some sleepless nights thinking about calling him and telling him to meet me at the park to settle things. no police, no friends, just two adults fighting it out for our own reasons. i haven’t seen him around for a while as he disappeared from the beach. last week, i heard he got married to one of my friends. a very sweet girl that i respect very much. so i decided it was time to end it. then yesterday out of the blue, i see him and he paddles right next to me. we stare at each other for a little, going back to our dumb old selves, then i say “hey, congratulation dude. you scored an awesome wife.” he paddled up to me, shook hands, and he apologized for the incident a couple years ago. now, it’s settled. not through fists, but through forgiveness. and when i drove home last night after a long day, i felt like i finally grew up. thank goodness because one of us, or both of us could have been going to the hospital. it can be dangerous when two hard heads collide. haha.
Screen Shot 2016-07-31 at 1.23.53 PM
stoked to see Ayaka Suzuki in the water yesterday. she’s here for the bodyboard contest coming up next week at bowls. i will bet anyone that she will win it because she was ripping it hard yesterday.
Screen Shot 2016-07-31 at 1.24.05 PM
hard core bodyboarder, and hard core go-naminori official blogger. when i met her a while back, i knew this girl would make it big! so much dedication and so much passion. that’s what i like about her. Go-Ayaka!
Screen Shot 2016-07-22 at 1.41.45 PM
want to thank Kitahama-san for the cool message. i’m still so surprised that both your kids want to become doctors and you didn’t know about it. you must be a great role model for them because if both your kids want to become like you, you’re doing something right. and i’m sure they love surfing because of you too. congratulations and hope your kids dreams come true!

July 31, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report

5
Turtle Island
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high with chest high sets. Good.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and very warm day.
Going family surfing.
Have a wonderful day!