it’s so freaky to know that there are big sharks like this swimming around in the ocean. this one was off mexico. when i was blue water free diving there last time, i was thinking about the chance of seeing a big beast like this. going down 80′ in the dark blue waiting for a big shadow to approach me, it was super exciting, but super freaky. but i wouldn’t know what i’d do if i seen something like this swim up to me down there. if it was a tuna, i’d shoot it. if it was a shark, i would close my eyes and pray on the way up.

american surfer gets attacked by a crocodile in costa rica. yes people, there are salt water crocodiles. reminds me of free diving crocodile infested waters in indonesia 15 years ago. another scary thought.

and seen this eagle try to snatch the kid? that’s crazy! imagine if it was a baby? it would be gone!

seen the little rowboat that just made it to hawaii from thousands of miles away. luckily they made it right before this storm hit.

thank you Hikaru-san for the snacks! itadakimasu!

want to thank Suzuki-san for the wonderful time in hawaii. and thank you for making this wonderful slide show. awesome talent! hope to see you again!
**CLICK HERE FOR MASA SURF TRIP

Still coming!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana knee high? Why so small? But clean.
Diamond Head waist high and windy.
Trade winds at 10mph becoming stronger later.
Rain, clouds, flooding, and very warm.
Going storm surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

was a little worried when i drove down to the beach because of the storm that is nearby. but once we got out, i couldn’t believe how glassy it was! some nice waves for Oshima-san!

i still can’t believe it’s only been a year and a half and he’s surfing this good. big smiles!

and also catching good size waves. if you want to see a happy and positive surfer, just watch Oshima-san!

then it was Saori-san’s turn. she was on the beach looking a little tired. but as soon as she went in the water, everything changed. the happy smile once again!

and because i know how smart Saori-san is, i knew she would surf perfectly from the first wave. yes, she didn’t forget a thing. perfect surfing again!

so i put Saori-san on the smaller 9’6 after. i seriously thought she wouldn’t be able to ride it. but she proved me wrong. perfect again! an amazing and determined woman riding some nice size sets!

this is called “the calm before the storm.” look how glassy the ocean was! it was like a mirror.

went to eat lunch after with the 2 beautiful families. such a wonderful time with wonderful people.

then took Kawato-san surfing right after our dim sum digested. we surfed bowls practicing on the lefts all afternoon. i keep telling people that if your backside gets better, your frontside will get better too.

and if your backside gets better, you will start to love the best lefts on the island. we scored some great waves. then seen the storm coming and came in right before the heavy rain. great surfing Kawato-san and perfect timing!
see you guys again tomorrow for some real storm surfing!